An Asscher cut is a square step cut with deeply trimmed corners, giving it an octagonal outline. Developed by the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam in 1902, it is the definitive art deco shape and instantly recognisable to anyone who knows period jewellery.
Made to order in 9ct and 18ct gold with GRA certified moissanite from R13,995 or IGI certified lab grown diamond from R24,995.
The hall of mirrors
Like an emerald cut, an Asscher is a step cut, meaning long parallel facets rather than the many small facets of a brilliant. Because it is square rather than rectangular, those facets draw the eye straight down into the centre of the stone, producing a distinctive tunnel effect often described as a hall of mirrors.
It does not sparkle like a round. It has depth and geometry instead, and people who choose it are choosing it deliberately for that.
Clarity matters
Step cuts show everything. Open facets act as windows into the stone, so colour and inclusions are far more visible than in a brilliant cut. In a diamond this makes clarity grade genuinely important. In moissanite, grown to consistently high clarity, it matters much less, which makes an Asscher moissanite an efficient way to get this look.
Settings
Asscher suits solitaire settings best, since the geometry needs space to read. A four-claw setting at the trimmed corners is the traditional approach and protects the most vulnerable points. Bezel settings follow the octagonal outline cleanly and give full protection.
For art deco character, Asscher pairs naturally with tapered baguette side stones in a three stone setting.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between Asscher and emerald cut?
Both are step cuts. Asscher is square with deeply trimmed corners, emerald is rectangular. The square outline creates the distinctive hall of mirrors effect.
Does an Asscher sparkle?
Not like a brilliant cut. It produces depth and broad flashes rather than fine sparkle, which is the point of a step cut.
Is clarity important in an Asscher?
In diamonds, yes, the open facets show inclusions clearly. With moissanite, grown to consistently high clarity, it is far less of a concern.
Is it a vintage style?
It dates to 1902 and is strongly associated with art deco. It reads as period-appropriate and deliberate rather than trend-driven.